Changing a Darted Pant to a Pleated Pant and Vice Versa
The following are directions on how to change a darted pant to a pleated one or vice versa. Be sure to ask any questions and we will be glad to post the questions and answers. We will start with a darted pant and it is only the front that is changed. The back remains the same, as it is already darted.
Note: These directions apply to Silhouettes Pattern #3000.
1.) The dart on the front of the pant that is closest to the center front seam is called the center dart. It's placement is roughly 4" from the center front of the pant. Cut from the top of this dart down through the crease line of the pant to the very edge of the center of the hem, called the pivot point. Open the pant side, leaving the center of the pant where it is. The amount of the opening is called style and how much you want to open the pant is up to you, the designer. Just remember that you should double the pleat amount you want because the pleat has two layers. So if you want to pleat to be 3/4" deep, you should open the pleat up to 1 1/2" total. The pattern must remain flat. If it is not, then you have not cut to the edge of the pattern.
See Figure 1
2.) The dart on the front of the pant that is closest to the side of the pant is called the side dart. Its' placement has no rules to follow and is simply decided upon by the designer of the pattern. Cut from the top of this dart down about 8" (this amount is not critical) and then angle over to the side seam and use any point on the side seam as a pivot point.
The lower the pivot point the longer the pleat will extend down the leg. Then open up the side of the pant twice the amount that you want the pleat to be in depth. Again, the pattern must remain flat. If it is not, then you have not cut to the edge of the pattern. Any point along the edge of a pattern can act as a pivot point.
See Figure 2
It's that easy! Many have requested us to make a pattern with a flat front. We are having too much fun making other great patterns to simply make this one little change to our pants pattern #3000. So get our pattern and reverse this process, by overlapping the tissue, until there is just a dart left at the waist, and its that simple. Let us know of your success and email us with your questions.
To reverse this process, to go from pleats to darts on any pants pattern, including pattern #3000, do the following to the pant front and do nothing to the pant back.
There are pleat markings at the top of the pants front. There are two
pleats. One is closest the the center front and I will call this pleat the
center pleat, one is closest to the side seam and I will call this the side
Fold the tissue of the center front pleat closed, or almost closed at the
top and taper the close all the way down the hem, making the pattern lay flat. The pleat has a dart included in it, so I say close it most of the
way, leaving space to form a dart. Darts are just there for fit, so be sure to realize that this amount will vary according to how thick your waist is.
Fold the tissue of the side front pleat closed, or almost closed at the top and taper the close to the side seam at about the full part of the thigh. This pleat was not cut down to the bottom of the pant to open it up, so to close it, you would just go down to the thigh. You have to go to a sideseam so that the pattern will lay flat. Again, you can close it all the way or most of the way depending on how much dart you think you need. If you have a small waist in comparison to your hips, then I would not close it the whole way and leave space for a dart.
If you have any questions please contact us!